Hyaluronic Acid: A Scientist's View

Over the last decade, Hyaluronic Acid has perhaps been the most used buzzword in skincare. The ingredient features in some of the best products and formulations on the market today, such as our Eye Architecture Cream, Deep Nourishing Cream and Intense Hydrating Cream, amongst others from different brands.

Yes, it’s a super effective ingredient that gives visible results. It’s found naturally in our skin and is a great humectant, keeping the skin layers hydrated because it attracts water molecules to itself. This makes the skin look more plump and reduces the appearance of dehydration lines. As we age, we have lower levels of hyaluronic acid in our skin which somewhat compresses our skin layers and lends to a wrinkled effect. At Elethea, we’ve found Tamarind Seed Extract to be 40% more effective than Hyaluronic Acid, and moreover it is a much more energy-saving alternative to produce.

In comes topically applied Hyaluronic Acid. Slightly bigger Hyaluronic Acid molecules that are applied topically are small enough to penetrate the epidermis but their main benefit is in cross linking with other Hyaluronic Acid molecules in the skin to attract water and provide hydration. The half life of Hyaluronic Acid on the skin is roughly a day, so daily use is recommended.

Unfortunately, some think topically applying small Hyaluronic Acid molecules to their skin is more effective. However, these molecules will penetrate but in the dermis layer these are known to trigger an immune response: only large Hyaluronic Acid molecules stabilise the cellular matrix. Small, tiny Hyaluronic Acid molecules are not good for the overall structure of the cell matrix as the body recognises tiny Hyaluronic Acid molecules as signals for an immune response that will overall have a negative impact on the matrix of the skin.